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THE SWEATSUIT

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Grunge glam, Grunge chic


The new Fall/Winter M Missoni collection captures a fine grunge flair that comes through in the free and easy minimalist mood in a perfect grunge style, the immediate sense of relaxation marking the clothes. At the same time it makes a rich recherché statement thanks to the interesting elaboration of cuts and constructions, the unusual redefinition of shapes, the ever amazing use of materials and the exploration of a total impact chromatic universe.

The silhouette sets a new agenda. At once soft and studied, it’s snug on top, then extends outward from there on down. Basic shapes – rectangles and triangles – form close alliances to create fluid structures, primarily long swingy upside down tulip skirts with a lovely asymmetric feel and lots of the season’s favorite draping. Meanwhile pants in a fashion-forward egg shape key into a similar trend. As for the upper part of outfits, they may take a dual approach to the fluid look namely, a close-fitting inner layer and a free-flowing outer one. Equally fluid are the precision-perfect cocoon coats bordering on maxi cardigans, to sport with both utter ease and absolute style. Another feature of the new silhouette consists in item-identifying cuts, such as the ones on the vivacious little biba inspired dresses with pleats opening well below the waist.

Easy fits allow for a mix of soft/light/thick surfaces. Materials talk very much about tactility, a strong sense of full and chunky textures. It’s there in the houndstooth checks, in the craquelé patterns, in the relief pindots, in the fancy-weave jerseys, in the lavish peruvian poncho effects. While the material mix concept is now a classic, edgy expressions of the art make it exciting every time.

Even denim joins in the fun, adding to the appeal of an upside down tulip skirt and also of the superlight artist’s smock. Meantime, lurex seems to variously imbue midnight blue, cobalt blue and enamel blue bases with splashes, splotches, streaks of light. colors always play a game of opposites. on the one hand there are warm vibrant shades_ bright blue and orange, flame red, irish green, oil yellow, turquoise, burnt umber. On the other there are deep dark nuances_ forest green, olive green, army green, black naturally. Deserving a special mention is the color play in the tartan plaids authentically grunge style that make a happy return this season in the plisse inserts on dresses (complete with chromatic counterpoint front & back), in the sporty high-belted zip jacket with faux-sheepskin knit lining, in the pure mohair peacoats and in the quietly multicolor horizontal-ripple motif knits. Yet most striking of all are the gorgeous moiré and marble sensations, the pixel effects and the abstract/psychdelic floral patterns in an impressive array of jacquard, intarsia and print forms (often with iridescent glints). Then to heighten the collection’s allure in the grandest of styles, jacquard images of fictitious rock bands energize knits and dresses in an allover graphic art/mural/fresco mode.


Enjoy the winter, enjoy the M Missoni grunge chic style!