Setting the tone this season is a distinctly British spirit, in both classic severity-elegance and equally typical fun, fresh & quirky modes. All the same, in perfect sync with its bright, upbeat, contemporary DNA, the collection shows a clear preference for the latter, finding inspiration in the beat mood of fifty years back yet also in the rave parties of modern times.

Every reference fits easily into a collection that, although heterogeneous as to ideas & influences, is wholly coherent thanks to one outstanding and nigh-omnipresent leitmotif­ a golden knit marking, with varying degrees of importance, all the different shapes, colors and materials for FW 16-17.

The sense of severity comes through smoothly in the definition of forms. On the horizon of materials, the golden knit concept comes to the fore in a multiplicity of enticing ways­ as sweaters, blazers

and skirts with a lightweight cotton lining for extra softness‑ or in tandem with other fabrics for the creation of bibs, inserts, collars, yokes, even simple edgings (complete with button closure, for example, on the jersey blouse). Occasionally the glint of gold adds a special spark to prints, or becomes so strong as to give a phantasmagoric-psychedelic twist to the latest color mix‑ likewise, it may gloriously heighten the impact of a jacquard knit.

While glossy gold ensures the genuine novelty factor, now black gives way to off-white in the role of chromatic thread of continuity, conciliating among one another an endless array of greens – forest, cypress, fluo, mint – poppy red and coral, midnight blue and muted navy, broom blossom yellow, soft lovely pink. Not rarely do these hues meet & merge in tartan plaid, microcheck and – for a true emblem of the M Missoni identity – gorgeous bonbon-print form.