Fall Winter 15/16: the New Collection
For Winter 15/16, M Missoni finds inspirations in a techno-girl from Shanghai very much into metallic glints or, better yet, into the sense of intrigue and enchantment they spark.
That's the mood pervading M Missoni for Fall - Winter 2015/2016.
On occasion overtly, other times quietly and subtly, an enthralling game all about technique & interpretation, giving definition to a collection that looks at once to a far-off world, to modern decades, a contemporary universe. No hint of Déjà vu.
The shapes are made of a precise geometric rigor, while there is no lack of fluidity and ease, the focus is on a pursuit of severity, making the most of different kinds of color/material-contrast edging, all high in graphic impact.
The theme is ever present, from straight slim jackets to Mao style tunics with Qipao-type side neck closures, to ultralight satin blouses widening toward the bottom thanks to a special horizontal seam. Lengths vary as shorts take turns with open trapeze bermuda and skinny cropped pants. Similarly, skirts shift from mini to slightly asymmetric knee-length concepts.
The materials are chunky, rich, and with full textures. As common M Missoni element, knits often come complete with ripple or degradé effects. Equally important are other sorts of working processes, from embossing to jacquard designs. And as always, material mixes play an essential role. Thick-weave wools, jersey, satin, neoprene and velvet stand beautifully alone, yet mostly join forces with a smart new allure.
Colors are kaleidoscopic, as warm and precious as those marking the tapestries in the halls of the golden city, as gloriously irresistible as the ones identifying the costumes of Beijing opera performers. The palette sweeps from imperial red and yellow to jade green, from electric blue to peony pink, from orange to peach, to a bronze shade of brown, from plum to bright purple.
The reference to timeless motifs, traditional stage masks for instance, takes on a 21st century slant when the approach is serial to the point of becoming abstract.