“The tide is high but I'm holding on, I'm gonna be your number one, I'm not the kind of girl who gives up just like that, Oh no...”
Blondie, “The tide is high”, 1980.
The Big Apple, today: down in the SoHo, Tribeca and Greenwich Village districts a pop mood sets the tone, energizes the scene in a way comparable to just how intensely M Missoni is vibrating with color and vitality these days. For Spring 2017 the collection uses unusual influences to give the brand’s distinct identity an amazing new twist, an ever singular appeal. Once again, it’s all about playing back and forth between edgy style and style coherence, having fun with material mixes and fabric finishes, pursuing the perfection of shape and accent on detailing that take this fresh, upbeat and ultra unique sense of glam to the next level. Where sophistication, too, is the name of the game.
Clean lines clearly reference basic geometry. Shapes are boxy, trapezoidal, pencil thin. The three options hold equally true for coats & jackets and skirts, dresses, pants, some shirts. Likewise for the multicolor/material-mix intarsia knits and for striking details, as in the new version frogs, or real rectangles traversing outfits and (if unfastened) draping to form simple edges. Severity elegance marks both blouses and organza dresses where exquisitely precise cuts identify two make-a-statement types of collar: one complete with double rectangular-ribbon crossover bow, the other mock-turtleneck style with front patch pockets. Yet there are also some softer lines, as in the flowy jumpsuits and floaty skirts, in the top pieces with all fullness in back, and — primarily — in the long sleeveless V-neck dress widening toward the bottom. In a stunning high-sheen shade of blue, it’s a must of the collection. Lastly, metallic grommet perforation on all genres of items rethink the geo concept in micro (rather than macro) version.
Materials create a genuine sensation thanks to semi-chunky relief effects, intarsia designs, novel takes on all-time favorite zigzags. The latter capture attention in multiple styles, variously featuring broken lines, fine edges, a particular ombré vanisé effect, thick/thin and matte/sheer textures. Similarly, a chunky feel adds an extra special, even abstract plus to jacquard designs — namely, downtown or city skyline maps, street art images à la Steve Strauss, M logo in stylized lightning mode (pattern coming alternatively in print form). Relief jacquards also enhance cotton twills and super shiny fabrics with color-contrast stripes, while medium-big polkadots overlapping in different colors present a subtler kind of relief effect. On occasion, outsize urban-themed jacquards with a smart pixel flair up the ante in lurex. Lurex inlays and nylon/cotton edging, possibly in stretch version, appear in grand style too.
Colors are an irresistible part of the M Missoni message, always making pure kaleidoscopic magic. Hues go from vivid orange, pale azure, pastel yellow, cyclamen red, lilac, dark sky blue, birch or Irish green to much quieter shades — chalk white and light gray, for example — then all the way to eternal black. This season’s chromatic highlights include the natural white lamé jersey pants and the glossy midnight blue lurex jersey jumpsuit…
“Baby I love you, c'mon baby, Baby I love you, baby I love... I love only you”
Ramones, “Baby I love you”, 1980