"Fight like a girl," revealing a spirit rebellious to just the right degree, determined and free, making a mark as a woman in charge of her own life and of the times too. Yet in no way reluctant to give sway to the charms of a fairybook mood, to sweet delicate sensations, so winningly upbeat, to fond memories of a rich and lovely childhood. The M Missoni collection for Spring 2018 moves along a horizon of contrasts -- no contradictions -- that ultimately finds expression in the beauty of total harmony. Vibrant, joyous, full of fun.
Since the feel is mostly easy and pure levity sets the pace, forms have a distinctly gentle flow. Breezy light blouses and neoromantic frocks with deep V necks feature plisse tops crisscrossing to waist. Ruffles edge armholes and hems. Drawstrings accent on the horizontal smooth body-skimming lines. Dresses flare toward the bottom, for a fluttery trapeze effect. Meanwhile, there is also a clear desire for sartorial aplomb. Coats and jackets -- nearly always doublebreasted -- have a perfect drape. Skirts are knee length, and even if loose fit pants come crop style. As for tunic blouses, they capture the precision of a classic square shape.
On the material front, the freshest of inflections underscore the urge for a pert new slant on storybook enchantment. Jacquards create a colorful microcosm of ribbons on clothes. Equally colorful are the fab designs on skinny tops, crewnecks and cardigans, partly evoking fairytale world and partly once-upon-a-time kid's wear. Boucle' shows an unsuspected versatility, as fluffy as fur in the mini sweaters with rib borders, then super classy in tweed version with color-contrast fringe trim. There's even a boucle' stockinette (mouline of mood) for T-shirts and sweats with slogans in fluo tones. Cotton is thick and firm, while light pale linen/cotton denim attains the height of slick sophistication in the open-back dress complete with crisscross ties.
More than usual the chromatic alphabet plays with pastels: vanilla white, rose quartz, peony pink, azalea pink, flesh pink, aqua green, jade green, periwinkle blue, aquamarine blue. Though essentially the colors of fairytales and dreams, as a whole they find a new grounding in reality here thanks to the use of black, white (off preferably over optic), as well as a fine reassuring navy blue and a stunningly special shade of raspberry red. Patterns and designs -- soap bubbles first and foremost -- spark images of children's pastel drawings. And by no coincidence, exactly as in the case of jacquards, prints in superlight chiffons and crepes bring to mind Charlotte Gastaut's illustrations for children's books or the uneasy scribblings of animals and flowers by little kids. Adding to the picture are slogans written backward, mirror-readingwise. Lastly, while color mixes are always low-key, bordering on ombre', they go geo at times -- as in the blackboard and notebook checks, or in the extraordinary technicolor prince of wales plaid.
As lurex vibrates with signature shimmer & shine, M Missoni's must-have zigzags make magic on all types of clothes. With a particular nod to the '70s, they catalyze attention on black, pink and pearl backgrounds complete with subtle silver thread. Impact? Totally true to form, yet fresh and different every time.